Confession time: I actually like Jaén much more than I thought I did. I was always very dismissive of the capital city of Andalucia’s most overlooked province, besides perhaps Huelva, what with its unfinished tram, huge hills, and general lack of appeal. But a visit today, aided by some surprisingly good Mexican food and some February sunlight, helped me look past some of my personal issues. Jaén, it isn’t you, it’s me. Next stop – castle.